Lovely Elisabeth Erm (Estonia) got chosen as the face for Fendi Pre-Fall 2014 season lookbook. The essence of Fendi was perfectly distilled into one look from the label’s Pre-Fall collection. A lustrous leather jacket—stitched in a croc texture, when the easy way out would be to print the pattern—was tightly belted over a long, elegant skirt, from which peeked legs covered, like the satyr of Greek legend, in tiny tufts of fur. The extreme craftsmanship, the sleek sophistication, the pagan finishing touch—nobody bakes that recipe better than Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi. But those hairy legs aside (they were actually kneesocks), this wasn’t really a Fendi collection that dressed to thrill. If Spring offered a superb take on lightness, what we got here was more earthbound, with the heft of masculine tweed and shearling cut into solid silhouettes, and a prevailing somber seriousness, even if it was interrupted here and there by odd patches of color applied in a process called thermo-pigmentation. It seemed appropriate that the bag of the season had a sturdy four-in-one functionality. With a little manipulation, it converted from clutch to handbag to shoulder bag to messenger.
Fendi is not the only one brand who got their hands on Elisabeth for the upcoming season. Gucci, who apparently adore Estonian beauty by picking Karmen Pedaru many seasons in a row, are now in love with Elisabeth. The official line is that the collection represents the “Gucci essentials,” the elements of which include sharp hues (fuchsia, brick, bumblebee, azure), controlled volume, amped-up outerwear, and a masculine-feminine mix. Giannini collided colors so close on the spectrum that they produced a new twist on monochromatic. At times, she emphasized layering. But then she showed a day-to-night dress with generous sleeves offset by a butterfly-shaped basque—as complete a look as it gets. Twice she hybridized the classic Perfecto: elongating it into a dress coat and covering it in extra-plush gray shearling. Bookmark both now.
Beautiful Agne Konciute (Lithuania) is keeping up the marc by being dressed head to toe in Belstaff Pre-Fall 2014 collection. The current Belstaff revival continues to make a case that the broad strokes of moto-fetishism can work for womenswear as well as for menswear, and that the hard edges of aerodynamic biker jackets are strong enough to survive a little softening. Literally. The Pre-Fall collection designer Martin Cooper showed was as soft and rounded as any he’s ever shown, from the relaxed trousers to the round-shouldered, chunky knits. They came in black-and-white tweeds and lacquered checks—more graphic than anything Cooper has yet attempted. Skirt lengths got shorter, boots got higher: All in all, a flirty, more gamine take on Belstaff, not too dissimilar, in this way, from Cooper’s Spring ’13 collection. It was sweet, with plenty—especially those knits—to keep registers ringing.